Friday, August 22, 2014

Selekleka

A two lane highway snakes through town waiting for the busses to come through to Shire or Axum. A lush, green, densely forested hill stands proudly behind the colorful storefronts on the left hand side while the land opens up to a valley on the other. Boxes of cactus fruit sit on the sidewalk as their seller flicks away the flies. Twelve proud, tall camels use the bike lane, walking single file on the way to get another load of wood, flour or other commodities the farmer may need. Orange ping pong balls bounce back and fourth as competitive teenage boys play under the sun in Ethiopian jerseys. Fresh roasted coffee waifs through on the dusty, warm air inviting one into many little coffee houses. This is Selekleka, soon to be my home away from home.

When I was asked over a month ago where I wanted to be placed, I listed off something like the following: green, small, plenty of children, other site mates to collaborate with would be cool but not necessary, fruit and veggies, moderate temperature and rural. I realized that this was a random list and I wasn't guaranteed to get anything I asked for. There is nothing special about me to make me get what I want compared to the other 69 PCTs who also had their own dream lists. Spending time in Selekleka made me realize how blessed I really am. It's more than I could have anticipated or expected.
The country opens up along the paved turning road heading west out of Axum. Rolling hills are dark green thanks to all the rain this rainy season has brought. The first you can see of Selekleka is a square four story hotel sitting on the edge of the corner and hill while you wind your way to it. The entire town takes five minutes to drive through or twenty minutes to walk from one end to the other if you stop and talk to people along the way. For someone missing Mill City sized places, this is a relief from the large city atmosphere. Although the main road is paved all the roads coming off of it to form a web of rocky soil trails. After a rain, one has to slosh through the mud that squelches up your shoes to get anywhere. Unlike Butajira, where donkeys pull carts and horse drawn buggies are common and multiple, there are none here. Outside the mill house, where locals take their grain to get beaten into flour, donkeys and camels wait to carry the goods on their backs. I never saw a horse. Children call out and quickly learn your name! I will probably have to start being called "Jozie" as "Jessie" is a problem for most. My two site mates are fun, encouraging, welcoming, and supportive. Building relationships with them is going to be fun.
The school, a high school for Grades 9&10, is outside of the town hub. The 25-40 minute walk may seem daunting, but it is absolutely gorgeous. Hills form a loose hug around the valley of green turf and corn fields. Walking along the paved road (40 minute way) is smooth, gorgeous and a fun place to meet really rural children enamored by the lightness of my skin. Due to the rain, the short way through fields is unsuitable to go through for me. I was willing to try, but the kind school guard argued against it, so the road it was. I don't know details about when I will be teaching Grade 9, as the administrators of the school were in other cities for meetings. I am excited that it is the same grade I started Practicum with, but look forward to finding ways to adapt to the 55-60 students per class I will teaching.
While the Peace Corps did give me enough birr to stay in a hotel for my visit, I was able to say in my future compound! It is unclear if I am going to have one or two rooms, but the room I stayed in was amazing! The walls are painted a light teal, aquamarine and is still fairly fresh. The ceiling is tall which allows the medium size room to feel less claustrophobic-y. There is a bed that is comfortable and tall enough to store things under. I could get some tables and have my own kitchen area under the three foot square window. My two site mates let me look at their places, so I have plenty of dream ideas floating through my head. Probably the best part about my compound are the people. My landlady introduced herself as "Addoy" or "Mama." She is so hospitable and nice. For breakfast yesterday she gave me a large slice of bread with a sizable quantity of honey. Her granddaughter and daughter from Germany were visiting and very fun. My neighbor works at the health center as a HIV/AIDs nurse, giving medicine to those with the disease to prevent the spread. She invited me over for dinner and tea. Although our knowledge of each other's language is limited, we were able to have conversations mixing the two together. Her two year old is full of energy but adorable! I am going to miss her, but am looking forward to moving in and being her permanent neighbor.
Finally, Selekleka is a magical niche for deliciousness. Before site visit I had hit an injera wall. No matter how hard I tried, injera in Butajira was too sour and too hard to stomach most of it. In Selekleka it is edible! Last night I was even able to eat an entire plate of fir fir, injera with injera pieces soaked in spices, and enjoyed it. I also have discovered los shai, peanut tea. This sweet, thick, warm, peanut buttery tea is absolutely delicious on its own and great for dunking chocolate cookies in. Eating out at local habisha places with site mates has also been good. It is good to talk with people who live her and watch as they make food or spices. I cannot wait to learn how to cook some of these foods when I come back in a month.
Yes, I have one more month from today, before swearing in as an official Peace Corps Volunteer. One month to kick up the Tigrigna learning. One month to enjoy my host family and Butajira family. One month to get education, medical and safety trainings. One month until I come back to my small piece of paradise.

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