I follow the teal stream heading out of town. Students are serious as they head towards their first mid-exams of the school year, but they are still able to joke. I wonder if they are relieved to not have to carry exercise books to school today. Three male, 9th grade students wait to walk for me. They seek assurance that the English test on Wednesday (potentially Thursday) isn’t too hard. We joke around before Meles, a math teacher, suddenly materializes behind us and we separate into teachers and students.
The paved walk to school is beautiful and relaxed
as we cover all sorts of topics from universities to traveling to Tigrigna.
“Cali-po-lo-tus” is what locals call the eucalyptus trees lining the walk, a
left over from the brief Italian occupation. An older man starts talking around
me to Meles asking what I am doing here and why? While I understand, I let
Meles explain that I am a volunteer English teacher at the school. The man
keeps talking, and I finally laugh and explain myself to him, which shocks him
that I know Tigrigna.
Once we get to school the grade 10 students are
flooding out of the gates as the 9th grade ones wait to go in and
start their exams. To prevent cheating between shifts of students, this week
tests and shifts are segregated by grade. Many call out my name and ask me how
I am. I catch up with many and try to find my former students to check how they
are feeling about exams, before heading to the staff lounge.
Just as the outside of the school is busy, the
staff lounge is a loud buzz. Teachers I haven’t seen in a while are excited to
see me again. Others make the weekend break seem like a month has separated us.
While I’m not needed to proctor any of the tests, I still come to help, and
hang with my buddies. I’ve barely put away my bag when Gebre Selassie, a
brilliant history teacher who is also completely blind, asks if I would please
help him grade a section of his grade 10 exams. I quickly get my red pen and
start marking. Once finished I go into the main office to hang with Letish, the
secretary, and Meles while making copies for the next day’s exams. Teklay, one
of the Vice Directors, comes in after we are finished and whisks me to the
small café on campus. It’s part of the budget to give
all teachers tea and fuul, a hot breakfast dish, while working. We share two as
they come off hot right after each other.
There are still exams going on so I pull out some
dry erase makers and page protected paper for Winner, the three year old
shadow, and myself to color on. Soon exams are done and all teachers and
students make the walk back to town for a Christening… at least the party part
of the celebrations. In the swarms of students there are also a large group of
teachers meandering back on the dirt paths to the celebration.
Walking into the tarp covered area single filed
with the other teachers I realize how common and accepted this has become. When
I first went to events with teachers, mostly male, I was spotted out as being
the foreingi. Now, people know my name and recognize that I just one of the
crew of teachers that goes everywhere. Sitting on the familiar green benches
propped on small sawhorses between Meles and Hagos, a Geography teacher, I
couldn’t help but smile. There were other people in the small area; however,
they were mixed between the 40 some teachers and staff from Hakfen Secondary
School. Mesfin, an English teacher, made sure I got plenty of hilbet, shiro,
and silsi when the pots were passed around. Meles made sure that I understood
that the new dish was called “timitimo” and had it spelt correctly on my hand
in fidel. I didn’t even have to deny a sewa cup as everyone knows I don’t
drink. Instead Hagos made sure I got some water instead.
Even though I eat slower, we had all finished
before the music started going. There is an American song that’s titled “Why
Don’t We Just Dance?” Ethiopians never ask this question. They just do. As soon
as the music comes they start to sway and will even shoulder dance in their
seats before enough of them get up and join. I used to be intimated or scared.
Now, I waited long enough for Kadra to finish her plate before joining the
circle of teachers dancing.
After a couple more songs we stated to bail in
shifts of teachers, similar to the ones we had come in. Teklay and I got away
from a group of about 7 (including Gebre Selassie, Meles, Hagos and others),
and headed to find some tea. We all ended up going to the same place and joked
that Selekleka isn’t a very large town. After asking what a piece of cardboard
with bottle tops was, Teklay and Meles taught me how to play Ethiopian checkers
called Dama. One person played labels down and the other had them showing. The
rules are different and too complicated to explain here, but I was still able
to beat Meles before losing to Teklay. Mulaw, a Health and Physical Education
teacher, and Haile came over to really show me that I have years to catch on.
Jemal, a new Tigrigna teacher, showed me how to rock it with doing three jump
turns. We sat till it was getting chilly and I walked home before it got too
cold and dark.
Familiarity and comfort ability are two things
that I love most about my life here. People genuinely care about me when they
see me, yet we are all able to joke in a mix of languages. They no longer
question when I start to write Tigrigna on my left hand, but make sure that I
spelt it correctly. We can laugh about the craziness of each other’s languages
while not laughing at the person attempting the unfamiliar one. We can sit for
an hour to watch others play checkers and randomly chitchat.
Last year I was often forgotten when it came to
social functions. Either someone wouldn’t tell me it was going on, or tell me
we were all going. That’s rare these days. I’m asked a head of time, multiple times,
that I will be somewhere for something. It’s this inclusion that I treasure.
While eating, Meles mentioned that none of the 6 new teachers we have had come.
I pointed out that it is hard to feel wanted and part of a group when one is
new. Other teachers agreed, though many don’t remember that as they’ve been in
Selekleka for at least three years.
This whole week is designated to mid-exams. Three
each day for four days to cover the 11 subjects and have a day to hand back
exams. I’m not required to go to school tomorrow as I’m not proctoring, English
isn’t till Wednesday and there is no program going on. However, I will. I’ll go
to see my friends smile, ask how they are doing, help in any way I can, and
walk the half hour back with. Besides, Letish promised to paint my nails
tomorrow and I can’t pass up her hugs!
Hi Jessie. I've enjoyed checking out your blog - you have a great knack for painting a picture with words! My name is Michelle, and I was one of the PC Blog It Home contest winners a couple years ago. I’d like to invite you to a six-week Blog Challenge I'm hosting to help PCVs “level up” their Third Goal blogs in the New Year. This is “phase one" for an online project I’m working on with the aim of helping bloggers to promote cross-cultural understanding. I'd be honored if you would visit my new site: http://BloggingAbroad.org, watch the video (or read the transcript if loading videos is a challenge), and sign up to join the adventure in blogging. Take care and happy blogging! Michelle
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