Thursday, February 4, 2016

Four Ceremonies in Three Days 12 January 2016

 January is famous for being the month of celebrations. Orthodox Christian Ethiopians are relishing having completed the fast for Christmas while preparing for another long one leading up to Easter (this year ending 31 April). They are still diligently observing the Wednesday and Friday fasts that prevent any animal byproducts to be consumed. This makes January be a very busy and carbohydrate heavy month. The last three days have shown me how varied, valued, and communal these ceremonies can be.  

Sunday 10 January: Bisrat and Rahel’s Wedding Ceremony (11am-?am on the 11th)  While a wedding ceremony isn’t just one day (See other blog “Never Ending Dance Party” for full wedding week fun), Sunday was full of wedding celebrations both for the families and the communities involved. Celebrations were held in Selekleka at the grooms’ house, in Shire at the bride’s house and then back to the grooms’ to push celebrations over into the following morning. There were food and dances that were open just for family and others that were served more communal. With music blaring long into the night (even as people were falling asleep on benches) it is clear that all were welcome and excited for the events. Women dressed up in beautiful white dresses with dazzling gold jewelery and men wore their spiffiest suits.  

Monday 11 January: Merian’s Christening Ceremony There has been an invitation having on the inside of my locker door for the past week and a half. One of my fellow English teachers was recently blessed with a baby girl (Merian) and, keeping to tradition, holding a Christening ceremony 60 days after. Being part of the afternoon shift, I went with fellow teacher friends after a shortened class schedule. We filed in on benches and were quickly handed plastic bowels to be loaded with injera and spicy meat soup. Cups were giving overflowing with sewa to those who wanted it. After eating (and I introduce all the magical awesomeness of wet wipes) we moved to another part where we were closer to the music and the dance floor.  Coming into the small dirt dance floor I was quickly joined by other women, one of whom draped a white shawl over me as we continued. No one was wearing traditional clothing. The music crinkled and cracked over speakers. One of the teachers commented that small ceremonies like this are the best kind. Seeing all the smiles and laughs I’d have to agree.  

Tuesday 12 January: Negassi’s Condolence Ceremony  When I arrived at school there was great talk about another ceremony and when teachers would go to it. I was slightly nervous as I taught the 6th and final period of the day, which tends to get cut in the afternoon when there is a program to go to. Thankfully I taught and there was a group of teachers waiting to walk back to town with me. Usually we would be a large group laughing and talking. However, today was much more solemn and it only increased the closer we got to town. One of the preparatory school (grades 11-12) teacher’s mother just passed away. This wasn’t a funeral, but a “condolence ceremony.”  As many teacher buddies made sure I understood (i.e., telling me in English), when someone loses a close family member friends have to come closer to give support and condolences. When we got to the small compound I couldn’t help but feel the radiation of support from teachers crammed on rocks, benches and small chairs.  Tea and roasted chickpeas were served to all. Before leaving, everyone shook hands and shared hushed words with the teacher. I heard later that there was a collection from all teachers for him and his family.  

12 January: Buna Ceremony with Teklay & Betty. After Negassi’s ceremony, Teklay dragged me to his house for coffee (“buna”) and I went willingly. His wife Betty is beautiful, sweet, funny and an amazing woman. Their two-year old son has more facial expressions than there are emoticons. Their home may be small, but it’s a familiar sight with friends I see as extended family. Coffee ceremonies are a relaxed yet time honored practice for friends to share in. After roasting the beans over a clay charcoal stove, the beans are passed around to be smelled and praised. Then the small clay “jebbina” is put on the coals to heat water as beans are ground before adding them in.  The art of making coffee by boiling and pouring in and out of the jebbina is something I haven’t mastered yet, but am completely fascinated by. Once the magic has mixed, the jebbina is set in a small stand. On goes a pot to pop popcorn. The jebinna’s spot is shifted sideways  as the final kernals pop. The popcorn is dumped in a plastic bowl and sprinkled with sugar. Sugar goes into the small white cups in a stand, before the rich dark coffee is poured in. Cups on saucers are handed first to guests, as well as popcorn. Once all have been served, the jebbina is returned to the charcoal to be refilled two more times.  

The four ceremonies a diverse snapshot of celebrations that are going on around here. Some are very formal and extravagant with costs making me cringe and others that are simply held in a home for friends. Some are to celebrate new life and others serve as a reminder to how fleeting life can be. All are surrounded with friends, family, support and immeasurable amounts of love. What’s key is to realize that there is a time for everything (Ecc. 3) and to take part fully in whatever time it is currently. 

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